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In the FINNERO blogs, you will get tips on caring for your pet and information on how to use FINNERO products.
World Animal Day is celebrated globally every year on October 4th. For us at FINNERO, that day is also a celebration every year.
The History of World Animal Day
The day originated from the initiative of animal protection activist Heinrich Zimmermann (1887–1942). Zimmermann was a writer and publisher of the magazine *Mensch und Hund* (Man and Dog). He wrote extensively about animal rights and published the popular books *Lexicon for Friends of Dogs* and *Animal Brother*.
To raise awareness of animal rights, Zimmermann organized the first World Animal Day on March 24, 1925, in Berlin. More than 5,000 people attended the event. In 1929, the date was permanently set as October 4th, which remains the official day. The reason for this particular date was St. Francis of Assisi (1181–1226), the patron saint of animals and zoos. According to legend, St. Francis could talk to animals, which is why he is often depicted with animals in statues and paintings. St. Francis died on October 4th, which became his memorial day—and later World Animal Day.
Initially, Zimmermann gained support for the theme day only from Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and Czechoslovakia. However, his relentless work paid off, and on May 8, 1931, at the World Animal Protection Congress in Florence, World Animal Day was declared a universal theme day.
What Does World Animal Day Aim to Achieve?
The official World Animal Day website, www.worldanimalday.org.uk, summarizes its mission as follows:
“The mission is to improve the status of animals and raise welfare standards worldwide. To unite the animal protection movement into a global force to make the world a better place for all animals. The day is celebrated in various ways in each country, regardless of nationality, religion, or political ideology. Through increased awareness and education, we can create a world where animals are recognized as sentient beings whose well-being must always be considered.”
A noble goal! While the status of animals has improved significantly in many countries, there is still much work to be done on a global scale.
Animal Week (October 4–10)
In Finland, World Animal Day marks the start of Animal Week. This week has been celebrated in Finland since 1959, initiated by the Finnish Animal Welfare Association. Each year, Animal Week highlights a current or otherwise significant animal protection theme. SEY produces materials on the theme for children, the general public, and decision-makers.
Finland has long had a high level of animal protection and respect for animals. However, there are still areas for improvement, so the goal of Animal Week is to spread knowledge about the needs, behavior, and other aspects of various animals so that we can understand our animal friends even better—and so that every day of the year can be World Animal Day.
FINNERO and Animal Protection
FINNERO wants to support animal protection and animal rights. For this reason, we have designed the RESCUE products, also known as the "On the Way Home" collection, in collaboration with the Rescue Association Kulkurit. A portion of the proceeds from the collection is donated to support the work of Rescue Association Kulkurit ry.
The main criteria for the products were practicality, softness, cheerfulness, and reliability. The design especially considers rescue dogs. With several products from the collection, we aim to offer these dogs a gentle and safe start to their new life in a new home. Naturally, the collection is also suitable for any stylish dog.
Explore FINNERO RESCUE products
Happy Animal Week to everyone—both animals and people!
Rabbits are extremely popular pets around the world, and for good reason. They are a bit like small dogs: intelligent, full of personality, social, energetic – and incredibly cute!
Often, a rabbit is acquired as the only rabbit in a household, but in the wild, rabbits live in loose communities, not as loners. If you’re considering getting two rabbits, the best option would be a female and a neutered male, introduced to each other at a young age. An adult rabbit might be so territorial that it won’t accept a same-sex companion in its space at all.
There are many different types of rabbits
There are dozens of rabbit breeds and different breeds can interbreed.
Rabbit breeds are classified according to breed standards into different groups based on size and coat type. For example, dwarf breeds like the Netherland Dwarf weigh well under a kilogram, while giant breeds like the Flemish Giant can weigh up to 9 kg or more. Although there is a wide range of sizes, colors, coat types, and ear lengths, the basic care of all rabbits is the same.
A rabbit's lifespan is usually 6–9 years, but in the right conditions, a rabbit can live to be over 10 years old.
Pet rabbits have wild rabbit instincts
Wild rabbits live in large communities and create their own territories, which can be well over 20 hectares in suitable conditions. Pet rabbits also have wild rabbit instincts, so they too will form their territory. A pet rabbit's territory might be a designated enclosure, a room, or even the entire home – depending on what space the owner can provide.
Wild rabbits mark their territory using scent glands, urine, and droppings. If you see your rabbit rubbing its chin on a chair leg, it’s marking its territory, as scent glands in the rabbit’s lower jaw allow it to mark specific places and objects. Especially during the mating season, and other times, unneutered male rabbits might enthusiastically spray urine quite high. Additionally, a rabbit may mark its boundaries with droppings. The tendency to mark territory varies widely among rabbits—some are highly active in marking, while others don't engage in it at all. Both the intensity of the scent and the size of the scent glands can also differ from one rabbit to another. Fortunately, rabbit marking scents are usually undetectable to humans, but if a male rabbit is overly enthusiastic about marking his territory, neutering may help calm his instincts.
Tunnels and burrows – is there anything better?
Rabbits love digging! In the wild, rabbits dig tunnels with nesting chambers, so pet rabbits also follow their wild instincts by digging or at least trying to dig. They may vigorously scratch carpets and floors with their front paws, even if they can’t dig through laminate flooring. It would be wonderful to provide your rabbit with a deep digging box, perhaps filled with peat, where it could create more than just a crumpled carpet and floor noise.
Since tunnels, chambers, and nests are appealing and natural for rabbits, you can offer them various tubes, canopies, boxes, and huts where they feel safe. Remember to ensure that the nest places you provide are safe and sturdy enough for the rabbit. The best options are various tubes, huts, and nests designed specifically for rabbits, which are widely available in pet markets.
If you let your rabbit play outside in an enclosure without a floor, there is a great risk that the rabbit will dig a tunnel to escape. Therefore, an outdoor enclosure should have a mesh floor, or the edges of the enclosure should be buried deep into the ground. It's also good to have a roof on the enclosure – many birds of prey, foxes, and cats find rabbits an irresistibly tempting prey. The enclosure should always have hay and water available, as well as at least one roofed hut.
Do you speak rabbit?
Rabbits have their own language, which we humans can learn to interpret. Remember Disney’s Thumper rabbit, who thumped the ground with his hind leg? This is perhaps the most well-known rabbit gesture. A thump can indicate excitement, but it often serves as a rabbit's way of warning the community about an approaching predator or something else that scares the rabbit.
In a rabbit community, rabbits calm each other and strengthen their bonds by grooming each other's fur. If your rabbit does this to you, be happy: the rabbit considers you part of its community.
A rabbit might nudge you with its nose to get attention or perhaps a treat. On the other hand, it might also mean that the rabbit wants to get out of your lap – the interpretation of this gesture depends a bit on the situation.
Side leaps, high jumps, and crazy dashes indicate that your rabbit is in an especially joyful mood. When a small rabbit’s soul is full of energy and joy, it just can't stay in one place!
A rabbit can also show its displeasure. If it swats at you with its front paws like a boxer and even growls, it's strongly telling you to back off immediately. And you should, as a frightened or protective rabbit might even bite if cornered. Typically, such aggressive behavior is due to an unusual situation – by nature, a rabbit is not an aggressive animal. Perhaps your rabbit is extremely timid and just needs time, love, and patience? It’s also good to check if the rabbit has any pain that you haven’t noticed before.
When a rabbit is calm and feels safe, it might roll onto its side or even onto its back. Exposing its belly shows great trust. If you also hear your rabbit quietly grinding its teeth with contentment at the same time, it’s in a particularly blissful state.
Rabbit behavior includes many other gestures and sounds – you’ll learn to read your own rabbit’s "small talk" as you spend time with it daily.
Cage, enclosure, or total freedom?
A rabbit is an active and curious creature. In fact, movement is important for its digestion: too little activity can cause constipation in rabbits.
Constantly keeping such a busy and personable animal in a cage leads to a depressed and frustrated bunny. So, let your rabbit roam freely as much as possible every day. It doesn’t need to occupy the entire house, but it would be great to give it a room or two of safe space to explore.
However, a cage or enclosure is often necessary – it’s a safe place for the rabbit when the rest of the family is at work or school. It’s also the most logical place to keep the rabbit's water bottle, food dishes, nesting hut, hay, and litter box. Nesting huts can be placed elsewhere in the home too – variety is nice.
For a rabbit weighing 2–3 kg, the cage or enclosure should be 120 x 50 cm, and for a rabbit weighing 3–4 kg, it should be 140 x 50 cm. For giant breeds, even larger. You can never offer your rabbit too much space.
Rabbit equipment
You can get all kinds of fun things for your rabbit, from hammocks to rabbit toys, but at least these basics should be provided: a water bottle, a food dish, a hay rack, a nesting hut, and bedding or rag rugs for the living area floor.
A rabbit is naturally clean and can easily learn to use a litter box. Open cat litter boxes are popular among rabbits. A suitable bedding for the litter box might be Cunipic paper pellets – with some experimentation, you’ll find what works best.
What makes a home safe for a rabbit?
Curiosity leads rabbits to explore their environment by nibbling on anything they come across. Maybe an electric cord feels like a crispy branch? Or could that houseplant make a good snack? It's important to ensure that there’s nothing within the rabbit’s reach that could cause stomach troubles.
Other things that can be harmful or dangerous to a rabbit include open doors that invite escape, drafts that can cause colds, insecticides, and pets that might harm the rabbit. Excessive heat or humidity is also harmful. Creating suitable conditions isn’t rocket science – common sense and forethought are key.
What does a rabbit eat?
The rabbit's diet: 70% hay, 20% complete feed, 8% fresh food, 2% treats.
Optimal values for rabbit nutrition:
70% Hay
Rabbits are hay-eaters, so hay is their main food. Studies show that rabbits eat more than 80 times a day, and to keep their digestion working properly, they must have dry hay available at all times. Dry hay typically refers to timothy hay, which can be thick-stemmed hay from the first cut of summer or leafier hay from the autumn harvest. Dry hay can be pure timothy hay, grassy meadow hay, or a mix that includes wild plants, herbs, flowers, or leaves. A tasty and high-quality option is alpine hay. The Cunipic series offers Naturaliss Alpine Hay, sourced from the clean mountain meadows of the Pyrenees, containing over 45 different types of grasses.
Whatever type of hay it is, the main thing is that it's of good quality, dust-free, mold-free, and tasty.
20% Complete Feed
There are many different types of complete feeds for rabbits. The most recommended are grain-free options, whose nutritional content meets the optimal values mentioned above.
Complete feed can be pelleted or a mixture of various plant-based ingredients. Both are fine, or you can combine both types for variety.
8% Fresh Food
Rabbits love fresh vegetables and fruits. Start introducing fresh food to a baby rabbit when it’s 12–16 weeks old.
An adult rabbit’s daily diet can include carrots, leaves, dandelions, herbs, and small pieces of fruit, but avoid giving too much sweet or starchy food. Avoid cabbage as well; it often causes stomach trouble in rabbits.
Always provide fresh food that’s been thoroughly washed. Check with your vet before picking wild herbs, and always choose those growing in pollution-free areas.
2% Treats
While it might be tempting to spoil your rabbit with treats, remember that treats should only make up a small portion of its diet. Offer them in moderation and always choose healthy, rabbit-safe options.
Water
Rabbits must always have access to water, which should be fresh and clean. The best way to ensure this is by providing water through a water bottle.
Fiber and Rabbits
Fiber is crucial for rabbits. Rabbits have a large and "lazy" digestive system that lacks significant muscular function to move food mass forward in the intestines. Dry hay is rich in long fibers that help with this process. Fiber helps move food mass through the intestines and keeps digestion running smoothly.
A diet with insufficient fiber can slow down the movement of food mass in the intestines, potentially leading to constipation and gas-related stomach pain. Clumped, looser-than-normal droppings can also indicate a lack of fiber.
In addition to long fibers, herbivores need short fibers, which are directed to the cecum. In the cecum, nutrients are stored in the feces. Herbivores eat these so-called cecotropes/night droppings to reabsorb the essential nutrients – it’s completely normal for a rabbit to occasionally eat its own droppings.
Dental Health
Rabbits' continuously growing teeth need constant work to stay healthy. When eating dry hay, rabbits move their jaws in a way that ideally wears down their teeth. You can often offer hard items for rabbits to chew on; leafy branches are more suitable, while dried bread should be offered less frequently (as it often contains a lot of grains and salt). However, the most important support for managing tooth growth is hay.
Other Rabbit Care Tips
Breeding
Breeding rabbits should be done thoughtfully, ensuring that there will be a home for every baby bunny. If a male and female rabbit are kept together, the male will immediately mate with the female after the birth of the young, which is extremely demanding for the mother rabbit. The most responsible action is to sterilize either both or at least the male to avoid continuous litters.
Rabbits do not have a regular heat cycle, so they can become pregnant at any time, even immediately after giving birth. Rabbits reach sexual maturity at a very young age, just a few months old. However, the first mating should be done when the female is nearing a year old, depending on the breed, and the male is over seven months old.
The gestation period is about 30 days, after which the female gives birth to 1-8 blind and helpless kits, depending on the breed. Smaller breeds typically have larger litters than larger ones. The female creates a nest from fur and hay, in which she gives birth to her litter.
Weaning begins around six weeks of age, when the kits are separated from their mother and placed in their own spaces to learn how to grow into adult rabbits. The young rabbits can move to their new homes when they are eight weeks old.
Enjoy your time with your rabbits!
FINNERO Products for Rabbits:
Cats are endlessly curious and adventurous creatures, so outdoor activities are an excellent way to provide your cat with ample stimulation and mental exercise. Outdoor adventures enrich both the pet's and the owner's life, as long as they are done safely and with the cat's well-being in mind.
While you can provide plenty of activities indoors, outdoor time is not strictly necessary for a cat. However, a cat enjoys the outdoors because it can explore the environment, smell interesting scents, and observe its surroundings. It follows birds, butterflies, and other small animals, just like its ancestors and the wide family of felines. Different surfaces, such as grass, sand, and trees, also offer intriguing sensory experiences and a change from the indoor environment.
Outdoor activities can also reduce a cat's stress and thereby promote its mental well-being. For physical health, outdoor activities are equally important—after all, exercise is beneficial for everyone. Additionally, outdoor moments can deepen the bond between the cat and its owner, as any time spent together enhances mutual trust and affection.
Even though outdoor activities are beneficial in many ways, it is crucial to ensure the cat's safety. A cat wandering freely alone is at risk of being hit by a car, encountering predators, or getting injured in many other ways. Cats also pose a significant threat to birds and other small wildlife. Particularly during breeding and nesting seasons, a cat’s natural hunting instinct can be devastating to wildlife.
The safest way to enjoy the outdoors with a cat is to use a harness or build an enclosure where the cat cannot wander off on its own.
1. Choose the right harness
The first step is to choose a suitable harness for your cat. The harness should be comfortable, sturdy, and properly fitted to your cat. It’s important to ensure the harness is neither too tight nor too loose. A well-fitting harness prevents the cat from escaping but does not restrict its movements.
2. Acclimate to the harness indoors
Start by acclimating your cat to the harness indoors, where it feels safe. Show the harness to your cat and let it sniff and explore it. You can give your cat treats near the harness so it associates the harness with positive experiences. Once the cat is familiar with the harness, try putting it on gently and calmly, so the cat doesn’t get scared. Initially, keep the harness on for only short periods and reward the cat with treats or play.
Repeat putting on the harness daily, gradually increasing the time the cat spends wearing it. This way, the cat will get used to the harness and learn that it’s not a threat.
3. Acclimate to the leash
When the cat is comfortable in the harness, you can attach a lightweight leash. Let the cat walk around with the leash indoors. Allow it to explore and move freely, but keep the leash loose so the cat doesn’t feel restricted. Gradually extend the walking time with the leash and practice gentle guiding. Let the cat determine the direction and pace to ensure it feels secure.
4. First outdoor experiences
Once the cat is fully accustomed to the harness and leash indoors, you can move to the outdoors. Choose a calm and safe place for the first outdoor experiences, such as your yard or a quiet park area. Avoid noisy and busy places that might frighten the cat. Keep the first outdoor sessions short, only a few minutes long. Allow the cat to explore the environment at its own pace and ensure it always has the option to return inside if it feels uncomfortable. Continue to reward the cat with treats and praise to associate outdoor time with positive experiences.
5. Lengthening outdoor sessions
When the cat is comfortable being outside for short periods, you can gradually lengthen the outdoor sessions and explore new places. Always keep an eye on the cat and its reactions. If the cat appears scared or anxious, return to a safer environment and shorten the outdoor time. Continue regular outdoor sessions so the cat remains accustomed to being outside and wearing the harness. This also helps to establish a routine, so the cat knows what to expect.
Remember, a cat’s personality matters. Not all cats may enjoy the outdoors equally. Some may be timid or fearful in new environments, so give your cat time to get used to the outdoors at its own pace.
In the pictures of this blog, Viivi the cat is wearing FINNERO LIGHT and FINNERO HALI harnesses, which are great for cats. Check out our harnesses:
Enjoy your outdoor adventures!
Playing with dogs is fun but also important for their physical and mental well-being. Two very popular toys that provide hours of entertainment and exercise are the floating water toy and the fabric tug toy.
Floating Water Toy
The floating water toy is perfect for dogs who love swimming. Whenever you're by the water, the floating toy will keep your water-loving dog's mind active, and your dog will get effective exercise.
Popular toys are made from durable, floating materials such as Thermo-Plastic-Rubber (TPR). It is good to choose a toy that is shaped so that it fits comfortably in the dog's mouth. That way, fetching goes smoothly!
Advantages of the floating toy:
Tug Toy
Tug toys made from durable ropes or fabrics are excellent for interactive play. Many prefer cotton, which is a natural fiber.
Advantages of the tug toy:
Tips for safe play:
FINNERO options:
And now... unleash the fun!
Birch Balm is made from tar extracted from birch bark and other natural ingredients. It is known for its versatile health benefits, even in the world of pets. Birch Balm is a traditional remedy that offers a natural and effective way to treat many animal skin and health issues. In this blog, we will explore the benefits and uses of Birch Balm for animals, although it is also excellent for human use!
What can Birch Balm be used for?
How to use Birch Balm?
The benefits of being resin-free
FINNERO BETULA Birch Balm does not contain resin. This is great, as some animals can be allergic to the resin. Resin allergy can cause various symptoms in animals, such as itching, redness, swelling, and skin irritation. In severe cases, it can lead to blisters and secondary infections due to constant scratching and licking. The use of resin-free products such as FINNERO BETULA Birch Balm is highly recommended to avoid allergic reactions.
Tips!
FINNERO BETULA Birch Balm is a versatile and natural remedy that provides effective relief for various skin and health issues in animals. Its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing properties make it a valuable addition to animal care products. Try Birch Balm on your animals and see for yourself how this traditional natural product can help improve their health and well-being.
Caring for your dog's nail health is part of a dog owner's daily routine. But what does it actually involve?
Monitoring
It's a good idea to regularly check the length of your dog's nails. This often happens almost automatically while petting your dog: a relaxed pup enjoying a belly rub won’t even notice when you discreetly check the condition of its paws. It’s important to teach your dog from a young age to allow you to touch its paws and nails—this will make paw care much easier when the dog is an adult.
When are the nails too long?
There are breed-specific and individual differences in the shapes of nails and paw pads, but as a general rule, the nails are too long if they touch the ground when the dog is standing in a normal position.
What are the drawbacks of long nails?
Too long nails cause pain for the dog. They can twist the paw into an unnatural position or even grow into a "hook" that presses into the paw pad, causing painful sores. A well-maintained short nail is also more resistant to normal wear and tear, reducing the risk of splitting and damaging the nail’s outer layer. If your dog wears booties, excessively long nails can press uncomfortably against the bootie and even damage it.
How to trim the nails?
Dog nails are trimmed with clippers designed specifically for dogs, available in various models and sizes. For puppies, only the sharp tip of the nail should be trimmed to avoid accidents and prevent the puppy from getting scared. This way, the little puppy learns that nail care is nothing to fear. Reward the puppy with praise and treats after trimming the nails, and follow up with a fun play session. This makes the process enjoyable for the puppy and makes future nail care easier.
Depending on the size of the dog, the proper way to hold the dog varies. A small dog can be held in your lap, while a larger dog can stay on the floor. Having someone gently but firmly hold the dog can also make the trimming easier.
The outer part of a dog’s nail is made of keratin, and inside is the quick, which contains blood vessels and nerves. If you cut the nail too short, the quick will break, causing the dog momentary pain and bleeding. There are home remedies for stopping the bleeding, such as cooling the nail with snow, ice, or cold water. You can also place some potato starch or baking soda in a small bag and dip the dog's paw into it for five minutes. There are also proper products available for this issue, which you can find at petstores, veterinary clinics, and pharmacies. These can be a useful addition to your dog’s home first-aid kit! Typically, the bleeding stops quickly, but if it continues after 15 minutes, you should contact a vet.
If you accidentally cut too much, remember to stay calm. Dogs are highly sensitive to their owner’s behavior and may become even more frightened if the owner panics.
Practice makes perfect! Nail trimming isn’t rocket science, and you’ll get the hang of it if you trim a little at a time and do it often. However, if the process feels too difficult, you can visit a vet or a pet store that offers nail trimming services to ensure your dog's nails are regularly taken care of.
When the nails are the right length, your dog can walk comfortably on various surfaces, and there’s no reason to avoid using booties either.
Check out FINNERO’s selection of booties here >
One important detail in basic dog wellness is paw care. The parts of a dog's paw that require attention include the pads, paw hair, nails, and nail beds.
Pads
Pads are thick tissue on the bottom of a dog's paw. Typically, pads are black, but some puppies may have cute pink pads, which usually darken as the pads thicken over time. Healthy pads are flexible, soft, and resilient, without sores or cracks.
Pads function like shock absorbers. They cushion and reduce stress on the dog's joints, which helps prevent joint problems. Pads are crucial for a dog’s balance and movement on various surfaces. They prevent slipping and protect the dog from physical injuries, such as muscle strains from slipping. Pads are made up of connective and fatty tissues. Fatty tissue provides insulation, helping regulate the temperature of the paws, such as against the cold.
Nails and Nail Beds
Dog nails are made of keratin, the same substance as human nails. Regular trimming of dog nails is important because overgrown nails are uncomfortable and can even be painful. In the worst cases, they can twist the paw into an abnormal position or grow into a "hook" that presses against the pad, causing painful wounds. Keeping nails short also withstands normal wear better and reduces the risk of chipping, which can damage the nail's outer layer.
TIP! For more details on nail trimming, we have written a detailed guide HERE >
Basic Paw Care
Preventing problems is easier than treating them. Therefore, keeping the paws clean and inspecting them regularly is important. It is crucial to ensure that the dog does not walk on hot surfaces like summer asphalt, as this can cause severe burns. If a surface is too hot for your hand, it is too hot for the dog's pads. Avoid walking on chemicals, as substances like road salt or de-icers can be harmful to paw health, causing severe irritation and dryness.
Keeping paw hair short supports the overall condition of the pads. Long hair can become tangled, restricting normal movement of the toes. Long hair and tangles can also rub the skin, making it susceptible to various infections. Additionally, long hair is a great way to collect dirt, snow, and moisture, which poses health risks to the dog and increases cleaning needs at home. Paw hair can be trimmed best with rounded-tip dog grooming scissors or a suitably small grooming machine.
Dryness of Paws
A common issue is dryness of the paws. Quick relief can be achieved by applying moisturizer. There are numerous paw balms on the market, we warmly recommend FINNERO Betula birch salve, which can be a great help with many problems.
Paw balm is an essential supply for dogs and should be available at home, whether it is summer or winter.
Moisturizing helps, but the cause of the dryness should be identified. Perhaps the season is particularly demanding for the paws? For example, during winter months, frost and dry indoor air can cause paw dryness. Alternatively, the cause might be related to diet and a lack of fatty acids. In this case, it is good to check the dog’s diet and, if necessary, provide supplements like fish oil, which contains important omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids for the general condition of the pads.
If Problems Arise
Despite best efforts, paw problems can still occur. Common paw health issues include wounds, cracks, and various infections. Wounds can occur if the dog walks on sharp stones or other challenging surfaces. First aid involves cleaning the wound with a pet-safe antiseptic. It is good to use a protective boot while the area heals. If the wound bleeds heavily, veterinary attention is needed, and follow-up care should be done according to the veterinarian's instructions.
Infections
Dog paws can develop various infections due to several reasons. Infections can be triggered by poorly managed wounds, food allergies, structural defects, improper posture, certain diseases, fungal infections, and mange. A relatively common issue, especially in heavy-set dogs, is called "false pad", which can be exacerbated by overweight and/or incorrect paw posture. A false pad forms when the pad and the hairy part of the paw both touch the ground. The skin of the hairy part thickens, the hair wears away, and the skin starts to resemble a pad—hence the name false pad. Despite its appearance, the skin of a false pad still has hair follicles that secrete sebum and sweat. When these cannot be expelled, the situation can develop into an inflammatory reaction called furunculosis, which always requires veterinary evaluation.
Boots as a Great Help
One way to ensure paw well-being is to use proper dog boots. Dog boots are becoming increasingly popular among dog owners due to their many benefits.
Various types of dog boots are available, each designed for specific purposes. You can explore FINNERON's boot selection HERE >
Walking on a leash doesn’t go perfectly right away with a young puppy. The scents of the world and all sorts of other incredibly interesting things capture the curious little one’s attention—and the leash inconveniently limits the puppy's frantic jumping from one side of the road to the other.
Training a small puppy to walk on a leash requires patience and consistency from the owner, as the puppy cannot immediately understand why it is not allowed to dart off in different directions when outside. The feeling of pressure from the leash might confuse the little dog, making it pull even harder—or sit down puzzled, pondering the situation. However, leash walking is something a dog must learn. It is important to be able to walk with the dog in busy areas without the dog constantly dashing off after everything that catches its attention, which at worst can cause dangerous situations or at least annoyed glances from passersby.
Walking on a Leash
A puppy’s energy to pull on the leash can be endless. There goes a squirrel, there goes another dog! It would be an absolute must to investigate everything right now. However, the dog must learn that it should not pull on the leash, but instead slow down when it feels the leash tighten. How can this be achieved?
The basis of good leash behavior is teaching the dog that it is rewarding to stay close to the owner. Training should ideally start indoors—and without a leash. The puppy is allowed to roam freely in the house, but whenever it comes to the owner and makes eye contact, i.e., establishes contact, it is praised—with words and small treats to reinforce the behavior. Training can be intensified by taking a few steps away from the dog, and when the dog follows, it is praised again. You can repeat this exercise several times: sometimes taking more steps away, sometimes fewer, and praising the dog every time it follows in the same direction as the owner. The training should not be too intense, and it’s important to take breaks.
While walking outside with a puppy, situations will undoubtedly arise where the puppy walks so far from the handler that the leash tightens. Scolding the dog doesn’t help, and you should never pull the dog by the leash. The dog does not learn anything from the owner pulling on the leash, but in the worst case, pulling can cause serious damage to the dog's neck and spine.
Instead, stop and wait. When the dog turns to look at the handler in the eyes, i.e., when it makes contact, the dog should be rewarded with praise and treats. Then, continue walking until the same situation arises again. And again.
You can also introduce a command for this situation, for example, saying "wait" every time you stop and wait for the dog to stop and make contact. Over time, the dog will learn to stop and look at the handler whenever it feels the leash tightening or hears the command "wait."
The keywords in dog training are consistency and patience. Every walk is a good opportunity to teach the dog a bit more of what has been practiced. With consistent training, and always respecting the animal's natural behavior, you can create a well-behaved dog companion with whom walks are fun and safe for everyone.
What Kind of Leash for a Puppy?
For a puppy leash, a light option, such as a nylon leash with a lightweight clip, works well. The length of a puppy leash should be such that the dog can move a bit further away from its owner to do its business in peace, but still be easily controlled and brought closer when needed. Typically, puppy leashes range from 120 to 180 cm (47"-70") in length.
A retractable leash is not suitable for a small puppy. It is better for the puppy to first learn how to walk properly with a basic leash, as the "freedom" provided by retractable leash only teaches the dog that it’s okay to run in different directions, even five or eight meters away from the owner. The time for using retractable leashes will come later, once the basic principles of leash walking have been learned.
FINNERO Products for Puppies
The BAMBINO leash is made from woven tape, which is very soft and lightweight. It is a great choice for walking with a small puppy. CHECK IT OUT >
The BAMBINO collar is made from woven tape, which is very soft, lightweight, flexible, and comfortable on a puppy's neck. It can be used as a first collar for puppies and for small adult dogs. CHECK IT OUT >
The LIGHT harness is made from breathable and slightly stretchy 100% polyester MESH fabric. The harness is very easy to put on and take off, with a buckle closure on the back. The LIGHT harness is a safe option for puppies learning to wear a harness, as the pressure is evenly distributed around the dog's body. CHECK IT OUT >
It isn’t great when your male dog starts marking their territory with pee. But why on earth do they do it? Do they pee everywhere for no reason, to pass time or could it be for some other reason?
Housebreaking your dog
If a puppy has not been housebroken, you cannot expect them to be house trained when they are adults. House training your puppy is the first thing you should teach them.
Patience and consistency will be rewarded when teaching your puppy where it is appropriate for them to relieve themselves. Take your puppy outside frequently—at least every two hours—and immediately after they wake up, during and after playing, and after eating or drinking. For instance, smaller breeds have smaller bladders and higher metabolisms and require more frequent trips outside. If your dog was not house trained when they were a puppy they can take longer to be housebroken.
Separation anxiety
Separation anxiety or other similar behavioral problems can also be the reason for the dog peeing inside the home, especially if the problem only occurs when the dog is home alone. Fortunately, there are solutions to handling a dog with behavioral problems, so it is not completely impossible to completely get rid of separation anxiety over time.
Enough time outdoors
Does your dog get out often enough to relieve themselves? Depending on the dogs age, their personality and the length of the walks, the appropriate amount of time spent outdoors varies, but either way your dog should be allowed outdoors at least three times a day and preferably more often. A dog’s retention ability is not limitless, so if your dog does pee indoors especially near the front door, you should make sure your dog has enough opportunities to relieve themselves.
The lovely girl dog next door
A dog’s sense of smell is known to be unparalleled. Usually this is a good thing, but it also has its downsides. If your male dog has caught a whiff of a female dog during one of their walks or otherwise it will make their head spin. When this happens, a male dog can start to mark his territory -including indoors. The love-longing male dog can also be more restless and eat poorly.
Health reasons
Whatever the reason for marking their territory you should always rule out the possibility of illness. If the dog is drinking more than usual, they will also pee more. Continuous drinking can be a sign of illness and you should sooner rather than later take your dog to the vet.
Urinary tract problems such as urinary tract infections, continence problems that come with old age, congenital malformations and other ailments that a dog can't do anything about always require the help of a veterinarian.
Old smells
It's critically important that you truly neutralize and remove the odors from the pee or poop first, before cleaning, shampooing, or steaming your floors and carpets. Miss this odor-neutralizing step and the lingering odor will keep your pup coming back for more! Try using products for sale in pet stores meant specifically for odor removal.
Don’t punish your dog
If your dog is peeing indoors, you must remind yourself they are not intentionally trying to annoy you. A dog lives in the moment and behaves according to their instincts - marking their territory with pee is one of its natural functions
House train your dog patiently and if you're struggling to train them ask the help of a professional.
FINNERO products to the rescue!
FINNERO male belt / male wrap is needed when a male dog marks furniture, curtains, rugs, etc. This can lead to both financial and unhygienic problems, not to mention the resentment that results. The male belt is a belt-shaped, easy-to-wear male protector. Most dogs stop marking when the male belt is on when they notice that there is no sign.
Urinary incontinence is a fairly common problem in dogs. It is different from marking, as incontinence is involuntary urination, meaning the dog is likely unaware of the issue. We have written a separate blog about marking, which you can find here >
Urinary incontinence can occur in dogs of any age, but it is most common in middle-aged and older dogs. It can affect both males and females, but it is most frequent in spayed, large female dogs.
The problem is usually noticed when the dog is sleeping. Urine may leak when the dog is in a deep sleep or when it gets up from lying down. It could be a tiny drop of urine on the floor occasionally, but it can also be more severe, causing almost the entire bladder to empty at once. But what on earth causes this?
There can be many reasons for involuntary urinary incontinence. Medical reasons may stem from abnormalities in the parts of the brain and spinal cord that control bladder function. It could be a congenital defect, and especially in older dogs, the cause may be the weakening of the muscles that retain urine in the bladder.
Urinary Incontinence in Young Dogs
In young dogs, involuntary urination can result from congenital abnormalities. The most common cause is anatomically misplaced ureters. The ureters carry urine from the kidneys to the bladder, but if one or both ureters bypass the bladder and connect to an abnormal location, such as the urethra, it can result in urinary retention problems.
Urethral sphincter mechanism incompetence is another reason that can cause urinary incontinence in young dogs. This condition usually resolves after the female dog's first heat.
There can be other reasons as well. Neurological issues and developmental disorders in the reproductive organs or bladder are possible but rarer causes of urinary incontinence.
Urinary Incontinence in Adult Dogs
There is a connection between spaying female dogs and urinary incontinence, although it is not entirely clear why spaying increases the risk of sphincter mechanism incompetence. Spaying causes hormonal and neurological changes, which may be a factor. The tissue of the urethral sphincter may become thinner, and there may be mechanical effects of spaying that make it harder to retain urine.
Incontinence in older, spayed dogs can occur months to years after spaying. The dog may urinate normally when outside but dribble more or less while resting or getting up from lying down. This condition is most common in large female dogs; medium and large female dogs are three times more likely to develop incontinence compared to smaller breeds.
A less common cause of urinary incontinence in female dogs is a condition where the vaginal opening is narrowed at the end of the urethra. In this case, urine can remain in the vagina behind the narrowed area when the dog urinates and may leak out on its own when the dog gets up from lying down.
In very old dogs, it is not entirely impossible that the dog has developed senility. In such cases, the dog cannot control its urination like it could when it was younger — it simply does not know that it is urinating.
Always Consult a Veterinarian!
If your dog is leaking urine without an obvious reason, it should always be taken to the veterinarian for a thorough examination. Only a veterinarian can rule out the possibility of urinary stones or urinary tract infections and investigate the specific cause of the incontinence.
Fortunately, there are effective treatments for urinary incontinence, so with proper treatment from a veterinarian, a dog can usually live a completely clean and happy life.
FINNERO Products for Urinary Incontinence
Treating a pet suffering from urinary incontinence with the help of a veterinarian is of utmost importance.
Sometimes the effectiveness of treatment is not immediately apparent, or despite good treatment, a few drops of urine may occasionally be on the floor. If you need to keep your home especially clean, for example, because of crawling infants on the floor, female dog heat pants or male dog belly bands can be used. These products help keep your home clean. Remember to ensure that the disposable pad or other absorbent material in the heat pants or belly band is changed to a clean one often enough.
Heat pants and belly bands are not treatments and should never replace a visit to the veterinarian, but they help maintain cleanliness inside the home.
Dogs will have their first estrous (reproductive or heat) cycle when they reach puberty. A dog's heat time or ‘’heat’’ is a female dog's rutting season, a time in which a female dog can become pregnant if it is allowed to mate with a male dog. Male dogs don’t have heat time and once they become sexually mature they can produce offspring at any time.
When is the rutting season?
On average, puberty (or sexual maturity) is reached at about 6-12 months of age, but this can vary by breed. Smaller breeds tend to have their first estrous cycle at an earlier age, while large and giant breeds may not come into heat for the first time until they reach eighteen months to two years of age. Differences between breeds are quite big - sometimes a dog can be almost two years of age before the first heat starts.
During rutting season, a female dog's behavior can change. They can be tired, in a world of their own, more restless than normal, bark more frequently, become a picky eater and when outside be especially interested in other dogs and tempting smells. They can also pee indoors even if out of character for them - the dog could during this time be subject to more time outdoors than usual. All changes in behavior are completely normal and usually the strongest changes happen during the first heat.
How long do they last?
The rutting season lasts approximately a month at a time. There are three different stages: preheat, heat and post-heat. In between heats is a rest period during which a dog cannot become pregnant. The duration of the rest period is typically six months, but it differs a lot between different dog breeds.
The first stage of the rutting season is pre-heat, which lasts from three days to about two weeks. During this period the dog’s genitals swell, the follicles develop and the bleeding related to the heat begins from the dogs vulva. It’s very individual how strong the bleeding is - in some it is barely noticeable and in others there is more mess. At this point male dogs are already interested in females, but females don’t let males get too close and reject the males attempts to mate. An unneutered male and a female experiencing preheat should not be left alone together because it is not entirely impossible that the male should impregnate the female. The female should for the entirety of the heat be kept away from unneutered males to prevent an unwanted pregnancy.
The actual heat lasts about a week. During this time the female is very submissive, and pregnancy is extremely likely. The female can be very interested in males at this time. At this stage pregnancy is very likely and if your intention is to breed puppies this is the time for it.
The last stage is post-heat. At this stage the swelling and bleeding slowly pass. During post-heat the female will no longer let the male close and reject all her suitors. The female can be more tired, but this is normal. On the other hand, if the dog starts licking more than usual, drinking more, peeing more or has higher temperature at worst they could have a uterine infection. If you suspect your dog has a uterine infection you must contact a vet posthaste. A uterine infection requires veterinary care.
If your dog has become pregnant during heat, they shall give birth 58-72 days after conception. If the dog hasn’t become pregnant it is possible that the dog can be subject to a false pregnancy. During a false pregnancy the dog's own body tricks them into thinking they are pregnant. The false pregnancy passes eventually and usually there is nothing to worry about. During a false pregnancy a female dog can carry toys more lovingly and make them a nest. The female might also produce milk, but the false pregnancy passes on its own when the aftereffects of the heat wear off.
During the rest period the dog’s hormone functions are normal and the dog cannot get pregnant until the next heat.
If you have no intention of letting your female dog have puppies, you can take them to the vet and have them sterilized. After sterilization the dog will no longer experience rutting season.
FINNERO products for heat
FINNERO heat pants are washable diapers (“panties”) for dogs in heat. It is put on the dog so that your surfaces and interior textiles are protected from the bleeding in your home and on the go. The heat panties also work with urinary incontinence for neutered females or elderly dogs.
If you have a female dog, it is recommended you get the heat pants early so the dog can get used to them before the heat. By putting the heat pants on the dog for a little while at a time and rewarding them the heat will pass without any problems.
Valid as of 1.3.2023
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Small parcel (XXS) 5,90€
Pick up parcel 6,90€
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1. Exchange or returns have been made within 14 days upon the customer’s receipt of the order.
2. The exchange and return form filled in accordance with the directions or corresponding details have been sent to FINNERO.
3. The returned product is free of dog hair, all labels are attached to the product and the product is in unused and fully salable condition.
If we receive an exchange or return delivery that does not meet all of the exchange and return conditions above, we have the right to decline the exchange or return of the product. In such cases, FINNERO is not liable to refund or in other way compensate the product. The customer will bear the costs of a possible re-delivery. We will charge for the re-delivery according to the original postage fees.
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